Problem Solving 1 (p. 97)

Case 1: The damage is probably done, but try anyway, adjust the clutch pedal free travel. Repeat the road test: if the clutch still slips, it should be replaced.

Case 2: The release/bearing is probably bad, and it should be replaced. Since some labor is required and this car has fairly high mileage, it would probably be a good idea to replace the rest of the clutch at the same time.

Problem Solving 2 (p. 118)

Case 1: Replace the pressure plate assembly, clutch disc, release bearing, and pilot bearing. Recondition or replace the flywheel.

Case 2: The clutch disc is not aligned to the pilot bearing properly. Check to make sure the clutch

disc splines are centered to the pilot bearing.

Problem Solving 3 (p. 121)

The gear clash and mushy pedal indicate that the hydraulic system has air in it. Bleed the air out.

Problem Solving 1 (p. 188)

Case 1: Check for a dragging clutch by performing a spin down test to find the cause of a clutch that is not releasing.

Case 2: The low fluid level has probably caused excessive bearing wear.

Problem Solving 2 (p. 206)

Case 1: Parts for this transmission should include: Cluster gear, Second speed gear, Small parts and gasket/seal kit, and all other worn parts.

Case 2: There is a problem in the 3-4 synchronizer assembly, shift fork, or shift rail. These should carefully checked.

Problem Solving 3 (p. 240)

Case 1: Ideally, you should replace all the worn parts in a transaxle. But in this case with the old car and budget restraints, replace the 1^st and 4^th gear blocker rings.

Case 2: The slower speed of the output shaft indicates that one of the lower gear blocker rings is wedged between the speed gear and the synchronizer assembly. Check to make sure that every blocker ring has side clearance.

Problem Solving 1 (p. 276)

Case 1: The rear U-joint is binding and not bending freely; it should be replaced.

Case 2: The clunk indicates excessive lash in the drivetrain. Check each CV joint for excess clearance. If no problem is found, check for excess clearance in the transaxle.

Problem Solving 2 (p. 294)

Case 1: This is a judgment call. The dimpled cage windows indicate a CV joint that should be replaced, and this will increase the cost of the parts. With very tight budget, I would replace the boot only and warn the customer about the damaged part.

Case 2: The outboard CV joint is worn, and either the joint or the driveshaft should be replaced.

Problem Solving 3 (p. 308)

Case 1: If the joint locked up, you probably let a needle bearing get out of position. Disassemble the tight bearings and check the needle bearings.

Case 2: The vibration is probably the result of the driveshaft being installed in a different position from original. Disconnect the rear U-joint from the pinion shaft flange, rotate it one-half turn, and reassemble it.

Problem Solving 1 (p. 345)

Case 1: This much internal lash is often caused by excessive differential wear. Remove the axle cover and check the clearance in the differential.

Case 2: Determine if the vibration also occurs during coast and float conditions; then check to determine if the vibration still occurs with the rear wheels removed. Worn axle bearing or a bent axle can cause this problem.

Problem Solving 2 (p. 358)

Case 1: Obtain a special tool to press the differential pinion shaft out of the case or a special drill bit and easy out to remove the broken bolt.

Case 2: The seal is probably part of the axle bearing.

Problem Solving 3 (p. 393)

Case 1: The lash variation goes out of specifications so it is not acceptable. The ring gear might not be fitted properly to the differential case or there might be too much runout at the ring gear flange. Remove the ring gear from the case, check for case excess runout, and install the ring gear onto the case properly.

Case 2: The drive pinion gear should be moved deeper into the ring gear. Remove and replace the pinion depth shim using a thinner shim.

Case 3: The drive pinion gear in this drive axle directly into the carrier. Moving the pinion gear deeper into the ring gear requires that the drive pinion gear must be removed and a thicker shim installed at the rear pinion shaft bearing.

Problem Solving 1 (p. 416)

Case 1: A bound-up transfer case shifter is often caused by driving on pavement in 4WD and making turns or with unequal tire diameters. Discus the 4WD drivetrain with the customer and determine the driving conditions that caused the problem.

Case 2: No drive to the front wheels can be caused by a fault in the transfer case, front driveshaft, front drive axle, front hubs, or front drive axle shift controls. Operate the vehicle will all four tires in the air and determine where the power goes/does not go.

Problem Solving 2 (p. 430)

Case 1: This could be caused by improper shift linkage adjustment. Check and adjust the linkage. If the problem is still there, you will probable need to make internal transfer case repairs.

Case 2: This problem could be caused by a fault in the front axle, hubs, or transfer case. Check the shift linkage adjustment. Then operate the vehicle with the tires off the ground to try to duplicate the problem and determine where the fault is.